This post is the third in a series of hints and tips to enable you to choose and use make-up confidently.
Part 1 looked at brushes and applicators and why you should use brushes to apply your make up, for hygiene as well as economic reasons.
In Part 2 we focused on your skin, how to hide those little problems with concealer, choose and apply foundation for a flawless finish and of course the finishing touch for your canvas, powder. And then once you have perfected your base how to be confident using blusher.
Here we focus on eyeshadow, eyeliner and mascara and how get it all to stay in place!
Part 4 will focus on lips and Part 5 will be all about your hands!
If you want beautiful eyes, first you have to lay the right foundations!
Obviously, make sure your eyes are clean and fresh before you start!
Even your skin tone, hide those dark circles... get out your concealer!
In order to help your eye shadow last the day, and to give you a good clean "canvas" to work on, dot concealer over your eyelid and around your eye, make sure you don't miss out the area between the inner eye and your nose.
Blend the concealer (so you don't have any obvious pale blotches!) and lightly dust over with face powder to "fix". Right, now you are set to start applying your colour...
Choosing your eyeshadow
Pressed powder, mineral, cream, liquid or gel?
Pressed powders and minerals - These are the most popular because they are easiest to apply and of course in the case of minerals they contain no preservatives or chemicals either. Use a brush as it will give you more control as well as save you money by using less product and will keep your make-up cleaner for longer. Applying with a damp brush will give you a darker shade, which is useful if you are on a budget (who isn't at the moment?!) and can also turn your eye shadow, with the use of the correct brush, into an eyeliner.
Cream eye shadows - These are generally oil based and come in little pots or compacts, again apply with a brush. These are often a good choice for drier or more mature skins that need a little extra moisturising but avoid if you have oily skin as they will often just crease and "disappear".
Liquid eye shadows, cream to powders and gels - Often waxed based, the creamy texture means they don't drag your skin when you apply them, either use a brush to apply or often the liquid shadows come in tubes with a built in applicator.
Choosing your colour
Ok, so now you need to choose what colours to use. You might have your favourite eye shadows or you might consider the following;
- Choose a colourway that is complimentary to your skin tone, is your tone cool (very pale, almost a blue undertone) or warm (ivory, cream with a yellowish tinge)?
- Having decided cool or warm, for every day wear the following suggestions might give you new ideas to try..
or alternatively you may have your own
Applying your eyeshadow...
So you have decided what kind of shadow you want to use, you have your brushes all ready and you have applied a primer or concealer and a light dusting of powder to clean eyes... we are ready to start!
Adding the colour to accentuate your eyes!
First apply the highlighter (the lightest shade in your palette) using a brush and add a light dusting over the whole eyelid and up to the brow bone.
Second take your middle toned colour and apply to the eye lid, taking care to blend it gently with the highlighter at the eyelid crease so you don't have an obvious stop and start line.
Lastly, take your darkest shade from your palette and apply to the eyelid on the outside corner blending in carefully towards the middle of the eyelid and up, again we are trying to avoid harsh lines.
Using a fine brush also apply a very little under the lower eye lashes blending from the outside corner in toward the middle of the eye, be careful not to apply too much, we are going for sophisticated glamour rather than Chi-Chi the Panda!
Eyeliner, and how to apply it so you don't look like a panda!
What form of eye liner?
The choice here is between pencil, liquid or gel (unless you are using a damp fine brush and the darkest of your eye shadow shades).
Pencil eye liners - these are the easiest to use, and can be applied to both the upper eyelid, under the lower eyelashes too and even in some cases to the waterline of your eye. Make sure your pencil is soft enough to not drag or tug at your skin.
Liquid and gel eye liners - these require a more confident and steady hand and are best kept for the upper eyelid only and not on the waterline.
Let's get drawing!
Don't try to do the whole line in one sweep unless you have really steady hands, this is particularly important if you are using a liquid or gel eye liner. Instead use small even strokes heading towards the outside corner of your eyelid. Use a cotton bud or q-tip to gently stretch the eyelid up and give you a smooth base to work on, don't use your fingers as they will put too much pressure on your eyelid and stretch it too much.
Start drawing the line very close to the lashes in the middle of the eyelid and work with small strokes to the outside corner then come back and finish from the inside corner back up to the middle.
If you are applying eye liner to the lower lash line use a cotton bud/q-tip to smudge and soften.
If you are doing a "wing" it needs to follow the natural up-sweep line of the lower eye line (if you do not use eye liner under your eyes start it from the outside corner of the upper lid) and carry on its natural sweep up and out. Different lengths of wings suit different eyes, experiment!
Drawing on the eye water-line (the inside edge of the lower line) is a personal preference, but be wary if you have small eyes using a dark eye liner here can make your eyes look even smaller!
If you want a little visual guidance here is the wonderful Michelle Phan's video tutorial for applying eyeliner...
Flutter your lashes... use mascara!
Mascara is the last thing you apply, after your eye shadow and your eye liner.
There are many colours to choose from such as Black, Dark Blue, Medium Brown, Dark Brown, Dark Purple and Dark Green.
Many manufacturers will promise you fantastic lengths, curls etc because of the wand they have created, but in fact a short, straight mascara brush will give you the most control and is the easiest to use. A word of good advice is to never pump the wand in and out of the tube as this just pushes air into the tube and makes the mascara dry out faster, instead just turn the wand inside the tube for a twist or two and this will coat the brush evenly for you.
Before you start check the wand for any clumps and gently sweep them onto a tissue, better there than on your lashes!
Apply the mascara to the upper lashes from beneath the lashes, holding the mirror slightly up so you are naturally looking upward and use a gentle zig-zag motion to coat as much of the eyelashes as possible, don't forget the lashes at the outside corner of your eye.
To apply to the lower lashes, hold the brush vertically and sweep from the root down to the tip, this takes practice (not to poke yourself in the eye!) but the result is worth it.
Separate your lashes using a lash comb.
If at any point you make a mistake (or sneeze!) use a cotton bud or q-tip dipped in cleanser to wipe away.
Eyebrows are your final framing touch
Eyebrows provide a frame for your eyes and tend to look best when they follow the natural shape of your eyes.
To find the start and end point for your brow take a pencil and hold it against the outside of your nose and across the tear duct (in the corner of your eye) the tip of the pencil will point to where your eyebrow should begin, next tilt the pencil so it runs from your nose to the crease at the outside of your eye and this is where your brow should end, simple!
Pluck out the excess hairs or feather in where brow is missing using an eyebrow pencil that matches your natural colour and use an eyebrow comb to neaten.
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Just had a peak at your website it's lovely. I had mine re-done a few months back but not sure if its right? If that makes sense.
Hope you get back into cards, I find it calming yet addictive, lol
x
How are you x
A pole eh? Ooooo I can feel my back aching at the thought lol. Good on ya though, a fantastic way to keep fit :D. Doesn't do any harm in a relationship either lol lol.
Hope your little boy sleeps well tonight for you and is feeling much better tomorrow, poor thing. Must be awful feeling like that :(. Bet you're shattered too, I know I would be. Well my 13 year old is a typical teenager but when he's being selfish and inconsiderate, we come down on him like a ton of bricks (emotional blackmail seems to work "you obviously don't care about your family" etc. - not nice but it's the best way to get through to him). So he does help me more than he helps with the kids, he likes to torment them which winds me up lol. Oh and the age gap is because my eldest is from my first marriage (me and his dad still get on and Jordan spends his time half and half between me and his dad which works out well) and my two youngest are from my second marriage to Gaz who is a star I have to say and I love him all the world - ok you can puke now lol. And the story about you and your boyfriend is so romantic. I can't believe you've lived apart for so long but as long as it suits the two of you then that's all that matters :D :D.
Well you've obviously still got a fantastic brain up there to be doing all you're doing. Mine has kinda died since my last two pregnancies and taking the medication for my back injury - god that really did space me out lol. But onwards and upwards and like you say, all learning is good learning.
One final comment - I'm right along side you treading water, it's hard work but it's exciting at the same time lol.
Take care speak soon
Love
Jude xxx
You ask as many questions as me ha ha ha.
Yes I gave up doulaing cos of my back, I really have to e 100% physically fit cos it can take a lot out of you at a birth, emotionally too cos you get so involved with the mum and her partner. I do love it though and maybe one day I will go back to it. It doesn't pay very well anyway so doulas normally have other things going on at the same time whatever that might be.
God we're so alike when it comes to our business. And no you started waaaay before me. We set up Ebay around June last year and then the website in November I think. We're called ourmakeupworld on Ebay and our website was called Makeupworld but I never liked it hence the rebranding. I read on WM your comment about money going the wrong way, god I know what you mean - we seemed to have been bleeding money on the business lately and no return :(. God I hope all this hard work pays off - FOR BOTH OF US!!!!
And you're studying a psychology degree, wow good on ya!!!! How old are your two little ones? Think I've said before that mine are 13, 2 and 1. Hard work but good fun. Must be tough for you doing a lot of it on your own. I know I'm always glad when Gaz gets home at night and can take over for a while. I dunno how you do it or how you manage to do everything else aswell - you're superwoman!!!!!!! :D :D. How come your boyfriend lives so far away? I know when I met Gaz he lived 80 miles away and that was bad enuf cos I missed him so much - well he moved in with me and changed jobs after 5 months cos we both felt the same ha ha.
I'm starting to do some studying too, got some FREE courses, yes FREE can you believe it?? One on Advice & Guidance and one on Business Start up, both NVQs - our local Job Centre has got funding with a training company so they've offered the courses to me. I never normally accept things for free but what the heck, I'll give it a go. Plus I'm seriously thinking of starting a diploma in Makeup, think it will really help with the business but that costs over 300 quid and I'm not sure we can afford it :(
Well better go, my munchkins are calling, wrecking the house as usual ha ha.
Take care, speak soon
Love
Jude xxx
My back was a prolapsed disc, started just before a client's birth in November last year, I was with her for 22 hours, it got worse, my left leg/foot went numb but incredible pain from buttock right down to my toes - seriously, I would rather give birth!! I was hospitalised for a week, put on special nerve medication, 3 months physio then consultant and I decided the discectomy (removal of part of the disc that's pressing on the sciatic nerve) was the best option cos my quality of life with my kids and everything was severely being affected.
Anyhow, op was the right thing to do. I'm off all medication, my back aches when I do too much and my leg/foot still numb but the nerve takes a long time to recover - they told me today, up to a year. But I'm getting better and I take each day as it comes. At least I can look after my kids even if I can't drive just yet.
So when did you start in business hon? What made you decide to go into cosmetics? How are you finding it all?
Things are slow for us at the moment (I said this on WM), I'm really hoping it's cos of the holiday season. You can get so downhearted can't you.
Do you do any other work other than your website business?
Love n hugs
Jude xxx
We've been out most of the day - my follow up hospital appointment (had an op on my spine in May) and then shopping with the kids, very therapeutic. Back on the old computer now though as you can see, can't seem to stay away these days lol.
Take care, speak soon
Love
Jude x
I think I'm going to attempt the child development course next as it's an essential one for the Bsc. Do you know I actually prefer the idea of studying from Oct - June as it fits with every other uni and college. :) I've no idea why they changed the start and end times for that one course, it does seem odd.
Funnily enough me and my hubby came with our name - play on words too I own cosmetics, get it? lol lol. We only rebranded in May and I got such a buzz from doing it all. Love all the creative side, hate all the google, adwords, listing bla bla bla. Although I am trying lol.
Oooo and migraines, had one of those this week, god awful things. You're like me though, stay up late unless you get one of them and it's off to bed to lie in the dark - get your boyfriend to massage your forehead, that's what I get Gaz to do lol.
Hope you're feeling better tomorrow xxxx
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